ITALY · FROM EXPERIENCE

If you are staying in Amalfi Town, hiking the Path of the Gods is very doable without a tour or private transportation. The hike itself was straightforward; getting to the trailhead and figuring out what to do at the other end required considerably more research.

I hiked from Bomerano to Nocelle in May, then took a local bus down toward Positano and a ferry back to Amalfi. I would absolutely do it again. The trail had extraordinary views, enough challenge to make it satisfying and far fewer people than the coastal towns below.

The part I wish had been clearer before I went was the logistics.

The route at a glance

I took a 10 a.m. bus from Amalfi, completed the hike without rushing and was back in Amalfi by mid-afternoon. 

SITA operates the public buses along the Amalfi Coast, including the Amalfi–Agerola route used to reach Bomerano. Timetables change seasonally, so check the current schedule on the official SITA Sud Campania timetable page before your hike rather than relying on an old blog timetable. Check current SITA Sud schedules

Is the Path of the Gods worth doing?

Absolutely! 

For me, this was one of the highlights of the Amalfi Coast. The scenery is spectacular, with long views over the coastline, but the experience also feels very different from walking through crowded Amalfi or Positano. 

It is not exactly undiscovered. There were other hikers around throughout the route, and several groups from my bus ended up moving along the trail at roughly the same time. But people spread out quickly according to their pace, so it never felt crowded. Travelling alone, I actually appreciated seeing other hikers periodically because I never felt isolated. 

It also has just enough difficulty to feel like you have done something more substantial than sightseeing. 

Why I hiked from Bomerano to Nocelle

I chose the Bomerano-to-Nocelle direction because it was the direction I saw recommended most often while researching the hike. It is generally described as the more downhill option, which is broadly true, but I would not interpret that to mean the trail is all downhill. There were still plenty of uphill sections, along with rocky and fairly steep stretches. 

The other advantage became obvious once I started walking: travelling in this direction puts many of the best views of the Amalfi Coast in front of you. Bomerano sits up in the hills above the coast, while Nocelle is a small hill town above Positano. Walking between them means those coastal vistas open up ahead of you rather than repeatedly requiring you to turn around to see them.

How difficult is the Path of the Gods?

I would rate the hike as moderate. There were flat sections, forested stretches that provided a welcome break from the sun, rocky sections and some steeper climbs and descents. I did not encounter anywhere that made me feel extremely exposed; in several places where the trail approached a drop or viewpoint, there were railings that also made useful places to stop and take in the scenery. 

You should still have a reasonable level of fitness, and good knees will help. On a few steeper descents I slowed down considerably and occasionally used the railings for extra support. Some hikers carried trekking poles. I did not need them, but I could see them being useful if you have knee issues or want more stability on the downhill sections. 

The weather made a difference too. I walked on a warm, dry day, which made the trail much easier to manage.

What shoes do you need?

I wore Skechers Go Walks. For the dry conditions I had, they were comfortable and handled the trail perfectly well, although they were extremely dusty by the end and needed a thorough cleaning. 

I would feel differently if the trail had recently been wet. There are rocky and uneven areas where better grip would become much more important. In warm, dry weather, I could also see a good-quality hiking sandal working well for someone accustomed to hiking in them. 

This is not a hike where I personally felt I needed heavy hiking boots, but footwear should match the trail conditions rather than simply the distance.

Bring water with you

I carried water, a couple of granola bars and an apple. I never actually needed the food during the hike, but the water was essential. It was warm and there are substantial stretches exposed to the sun. 

I did not see anywhere to refill water once I was on the trail. Bomerano has shops where you can buy water and snacks before walking to the trailhead, and several people from my bus stopped there before starting. If you arrive without enough water, this is the time to stock up.

Getting from Amalfi to Bomerano by SITA bus

This was the part that was much less obvious than the hike itself. 

I took the 10 a.m. SITA bus from Amalfi toward Bomerano. It was line 5080 on the Amalfi–Agerola–Naples route, and the journey took about 40 minutes with traffic. 

The road climbs into the hills and the views along the way are excellent. I arrived early enough to get into the queue, and although the bus was full, it was not overloaded. I had a seat for the trip. 

That was in mid-May. In peak summer, I would allow more time and be more cautious about assuming the same experience.

Where to buy the bus ticket in Amalfi

This was surprisingly confusing. 

Before going, I found multiple sources saying that bus tickets were available from local shops. I tried several shops around Amalfi — including places that were specifically listed online as ticket sellers — and none sold them. Several had signs explicitly saying they did not sell bus tickets. 

After asking around, I eventually learned that a man wearing a yellow vest near the bus area by the docks was selling them. I bought a one-way ticket from him in cash. 

The bus area appears on Google Maps as Amalfi Terminal, but do not expect anything resembling a formal bus terminal. The location and ticket process were not particularly well signposted, so I would arrive with some extra time rather than assuming you will immediately know where to go.

Getting off in Bomerano

The driver was helpful and told those of us heading for the Path of the Gods where to get off. Bomerano itself is a small town in the hills, with a central area and shops where you can buy water or snacks before starting. 

From the bus stop, I did not find the route to the trailhead particularly well marked. I used Google Maps to navigate through town until I reached the start. Once you arrive at the trailhead, however, there is a large sign and it is obvious that you are in the right place. 

From that point, the navigation becomes much easier.

Is the trail easy to follow?

Mostly, yes. 

There was not a huge amount of signage along the route, but most of the time there was only one obvious trail to follow. At one point, I encountered a branch where I could either descend a set of stairs or stay on a higher route to the right. I took the stairs, and the two routes eventually met again. 

That was the exception rather than the rule. I did not spend the hike repeatedly wondering whether I was still on the Path of the Gods. 

The scenery also makes it very tempting to stop frequently, so allow some extra time beyond whatever pace you would normally expect to walk 5.7 kilometres.

What the hike itself was like

The trail changes character throughout the walk. Some sections are rocky and require more concentration, others are relatively flat, and there are stretches through forest that provide welcome shade before the trail opens again to views over the coast. 

Those views are the main reason I would recommend the Bomerano-to-Nocelle direction. Much of the scenery unfolds ahead of you as you walk. 

I kept a steady pace but stopped regularly for photographs and a few short rests. My total walking time was around two hours, possibly a little under rather than over. 

I had read beforehand that the Path of the Gods could be very crowded and that starting extremely early was important. I deliberately chose not to do that because I wanted a relaxed morning and did not want to structure the day around another very early start. 

In mid-May, the 10 a.m. bus worked well for me. The first part of the trail was naturally busier because several people had arrived together, but everyone soon spread out according to pace. In hotter weather or peak summer, an earlier start could make much more sense.

Arriving in Nocelle

The trail finishes in Nocelle, a quiet little settlement in the hills above Positano. There was a café near where I entered town, although I did not stop, and the lanes were narrow, pedestrian and remarkably quiet after the busier towns along the coast. 

This was also where my carefully researched plan became less useful. 

I knew there was a very long staircase that could eventually take me downhill toward Positano. At one point I came to stairs heading down from the route through Nocelle and started descending them, then stopped. I was not sure whether these were actually the stairs I had read about and did not want to commit to hundreds of steps before knowing where I was going. 

I chose to continue exploring at the upper level instead. In doing that, I suspect I missed the church and some of the lower part of Nocelle, although I cannot say with certainty where those particular stairs would have taken me.

Finding the bus from Nocelle

Eventually I saw a handwritten sign pointing toward a bus. I followed it up a small set of stairs and found one of the least obvious bus stops I have ever used: essentially a spot beside a winding mountain road with no shelter and very little signage. 

For several minutes, I wondered whether I had actually found the right place. A few other travellers eventually appeared and waited with me, which was reassuring. There may be a more obvious stop elsewhere in Nocelle; this is simply the one I managed to find. 

The local bus eventually arrived and I paid the driver onboard. The fare was around €1.80, but I did not have exact change. That did not make the driver particularly happy, and I ended up paying about €2. Based on that experience, I would carry small coins.

The bus to Positano took longer than expected

I had seen estimates suggesting that the trip down toward Positano takes only 10 or 15 minutes. Mine was considerably longer. 

The bus was tiny, and many passengers were standing. As we approached Positano, traffic became very heavy and the journey stretched to roughly 40 minutes. 

This was in mid-May, which made me wonder how much worse the road becomes at the height of summer. It is another reason I would avoid planning the end of the hike around a tight ferry connection: the walking time is reasonably predictable; traffic down the mountain is not.

Getting back to Amalfi by ferry

Once I reached Positano, I walked through part of town but found the narrow streets extremely busy. Rather than trying to add more sightseeing, I headed toward the beach and ferry docks, where there was much more open space. 

I bought a Travelmar ticket directly from one of the booths for the next ferry to Amalfi for about €10. There was no complicated process: I was told to wait nearby, and as ferries were ready to board, staff held up signs showing the destinations so passengers knew where to queue. 

The ferry back to Amalfi took only about 15 minutes. After buses, mountain roads and hiking, finishing the loop on the water was a particularly pleasant way to return.

Could children hike the Path of the Gods?

Yes — if they are comfortable walking roughly 5.7 kilometres on uneven terrain. 

I would not describe this as a hike for very small children walking independently. There are rocky stretches, climbs and descents, and it requires sustained walking. For an older or reasonably fit child who enjoys hiking, I think it is very achievable. 

A small child in an appropriate hiking carrier is a different question, but the trail is absolutely not stroller-friendly. 

Parents should also think about the entire outing rather than only the 5.7-kilometre hike. The day includes the bus up to Bomerano, the trail, figuring out Nocelle, another bus down the mountain and transportation back to wherever you are staying. The walking may not be the part that tests everyone's patience.

What I would do differently

Not much. The 10 a.m. departure worked well in the weather I had, and I appreciated not forcing myself into an early start simply because that was what some advice recommended. I would still bring plenty of water and light snacks, and I was comfortable with my footwear in dry conditions. 

The main thing I would change is Nocelle. Next time, I would spend a little more time exploring the town and perhaps be less suspicious of every staircase. If my knees were feeling cooperative, I might even try the full descent toward Positano. 

I would also bring smaller change for the bus driver.

A note for planners like me

I like knowing how a trip is going to work before I set out. Where does the bus leave? Where do I buy the ticket? Which direction do I walk? What happens when the trail ends? 

That is partly why I wanted to put all of these details in one place. If having the logistics worked out makes you more comfortable, hopefully this gives you a much clearer starting point than I had. 

But one of the things I liked about this day was that not everything was completely clear. 

I had to ask someone where to buy a bus ticket. I used Google Maps to find the trailhead. I stood beside a mountain road wondering whether a bus was actually going to appear. In the end, it all worked. 

Giving yourself enough time to figure something out can be part of the satisfaction of travelling independently. The useful distinction is between leaving room for uncertainty and building an itinerary so tightly that every uncertainty becomes a problem.

The practical takeaway

The Path of the Gods was easier to hike than it was to research. 

Once I was on the trail, the route was mostly obvious and the experience was exactly what I had hoped for: spectacular scenery, a manageable physical challenge and a quieter way to experience the Amalfi Coast. 

The confusing pieces were around it — buying the bus ticket in Amalfi, finding the trailhead in Bomerano and working out how to leave Nocelle afterward. 

If you are starting in Amalfi Town, I would do essentially the same route again: 

SITA bus to Bomerano → hike to Nocelle → local bus toward Positano → ferry back to Amalfi. 

Give yourself enough time that a full bus, traffic jam or unclear sign does not become a crisis, carry your own water, and do not plan the day so tightly that you have to race through the reason you came. 

The logistics require a little patience. The hike is worth it.

More from this trip

• How I Planned Four Nights Across Capri, the Amalfi Coast and Naples
• Is Staying Overnight in Capri Worth It?
• Why I Chose Amalfi Town as My Base
• Italy by Train and Ferry: Strikes, Connections and How Much Buffer to Leave

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